 |
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
DAAD Undergraduate Profile: Kelly Bendelow |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Freiburg as a city can only be described as paradise on earth. Nestled in a valley next to the black forest, it is full of old, medieval buildings, winding little streets and alleys, crisscrossed with tiny streams that were once (probably disgusting) open sewers or drainage canals but now are pleasant little creeks. The old city is what an old city should be, with shop signs of wrought metal hanging over the passageways, largely pedestrian-only and tram streets, close by, lovely. Outside the old city are gorgeous old neighborhoods of old villas, townhouses, stately houses, interspersed with areas of clean modern architecture or neo-antique (what I name the style of modern architecture ubiquitous in Germany as ranch-style or bungalows are ubiquitous in parts of the US, usually square or rectangular, steeply pitched, tiled roofs, blends in well with historical buildings, either brick or plaster, depending on the location). A canal, the Dreisam, runs through the whole city. Some neighborhoods are on overlooking hills or in neighboring valleys.
The old city is dominated by a stately old church currently undergoing a face-lift and liposuction like the old lady she is. At her feet, every morning from 8 until 2 PM, is market: eight to fifteen or twenty vegetable stands, several butchers, two bakers, a couple of stalls selling antipasti and olives, one selling pickles (fantastic pickles, but doesn't hold a cucumber to Spreewaelder Guerken), flowers, more flowers, things carved of wood (anyone who has been to my parents' house and seen the wooden carved tablets knows what I mean), oven baked bread, home made preserves, a million kinds of honey and cheese, basically everything.
It’s full of students, around 35,000 out of a population of about 200,000. But there are plenty of elderly, mothers with kids, all kinds. Not just a student’s town, but still full of life. Cafes are packed outside on sunny days and inside on poor ones. I liked the place immediately, even in the rain, starting with the good-looking and helpful guys at the hostel, running to the architecture, the forests, the hills cradling the city like a baby, the bike paths and the trams. It’s lovely.
And to add to it all, today was an art market, stretching out from the market place like twigs from a tree, filling the alleys and streets off of the main square with handicrafts, paintings, pottery, stained glass, calligraphy, sculpture, knitting and yarn, jewelry, textiles, you name it. Expensive, of course, but interesting. For lunch I had stone-oven-baked bread (fantastic stuff--I came back for a second roll), pickles, and pickled radish (also excellent--the stuff is either horseradish or daikon, not sure which bzw. the difference). Washed it down with a cappuccino and a scoop of gelato (pistachio, or however you spell it). Relaxed in a park. Toured the University. Tried to get a hold of my proof of insurance with little success.
I decided to walk all the way back to the hostel, sparing myself a tram ticket. It was a lovely walk and took 45 minutes, but my feet were seriously considering mutiny. So to show just who is in charge I came back to the hostel, changed into my running shoes, and went hiking for an hour.
I love this city. It is stunningly beautiful, even in the rain, full of students and university kids, stuffed full of cafes, bookstores, interesting-looking restaurants, all the shopping one needs (same stores you'd find on Kufuerstendamm in Berlin), large but feels small, accessible, excellent public transportation. The people, despite their peculiar accent (you can tell who is from around here and who isn't), are wonderfully friendly, and it's all a sneeze away from both France and Switzerland. Too bad I have to leave on Saturday...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
